Men's Week Report | Fendi: Dress Up Idol

Before the press conference, Silvia Venturini Fendi sat cross-legged on the floor of his backstage lounge, slowly watching the photos of the models. “Today, the most subversive style is dress, seeing children wearing suits and ties,” she said thoughtfully. If she has her own way, Generation Z will be the official dress. When Silvia was invited to make a "special dress" for 14-year-old actor Noah Schnapp in "The Strange Story", she first thought of a suit.

In the men's fashion cycle, formal clothing follows casual wear, just like the night follows the day. But this new cut from Fendi is a bit different. First, it was recognized by Karl Lagerfeld. He has been the creative director of the company since 1965, but until now he has been involved in the male field.

This was an invitation from Silvia, and when she considered reshaping the Fendi man, she realized that there was no better candidate than Lagerfeld himself. "He is my biggest fantasies about men because he is the only Fendi man," she said. For many years, he has been the pinnacle of fashionism, from wearing a Caraceni suit to his mysterious flirting with Japanese brand Matsuda, to the classical style of Hilditch and Key, and his temperament to cater to Dior menswear. Infamous shape transformation carried out. “Karl has shown us how dressing is up to date,” Silvia said. She wants to use this as a starting point to think about his status as a popular icon in a suit and a Cuban high heel.

So she invited Lagerfeld as Fendi's newest guest artist. He answered her with a sketch of a jacket with a notched lap on one side and a shawl collar on the other. dualism. This has always been the essence of Lagerfeld's Fendi – the contest between classicism and futurism – and is often the driving force behind Silvia's leadership of the Fendi menswear collection. She likes to be a bit uncoordinated, a bit destructive, or even an abnormal thing. This tendency has produced some spectacular series.

The dualism here is not only reflected in the split of the personality on the lapel, but also on the front and rear forks of the leather shirt, black on one side and brown on the other. The same effect as a blazer, or knitwear, also has a forked design that allows you to change the back of the sweater to the front. There are zips on the collar and sleeves. There are two signs, one used by Lagerfeld in the 1980s, and the other that he originally used in the 1970s, but re-used in the 1990s (dualism, have you seen it?). They are printed on a large coat, collaged on a complex collage that records the relationship between Karl and Silvia for decades - letters, photos, works of art, souvenirs, and all that have been sent from Paris. Something in her big envelope. “I use the idea of ​​collage to show how his brain works... and text, because he plays word games very much.”

The show's set is based on Lagerfeld's library, some of which are sturdy in a tie and cardigan, with chained glasses and a scholarly temperament. The formality of Karl's own dress is reflected in this series (for Fendi) unusual black, careful attention to the collar of the shirt (all small letters on the collar), and flashing silver indicates that he likes to wear Jewelry, with a silk thread to create a sporty decoration with a fine stripe effect.

However, in keeping with the theme of dualism, this sobriety is offset by a more intense thing, especially in accessories (Baguette handbags belonging to boys!) and purely fabrics such as model Paul Hameline. Nylon organza, or cut into a transparent shirt and sexy silk organza trousers. “We live in a transparent era,” Silvia said. Is she sure? I'm curious. "Well, we want to do this." Anyway, she prefers politics. After the show, she and her family visited her favorite speaker, Emma Bonino, a maverick Italian Radical Party leader.