A detail reveals the halo of this custom factory today: from 2015 onwards, the average number of visitors to the red-collar planning team is about 20 or 30 people per day. The peak day is four days before and after, with a total of more than 200 people. The delegation came.

A well-known, lack of brand premium clothing manufacturer red collar, annual sales and the same level of Metersbonwe, but the net profit margin is much higher than the peak period of the United States.

This secret is hidden in the small battlefield of the female worker Chen Li: the hanging system on the left side hangs three pieces of fabric waiting to be processed; the top of the head is directly above, a total of 7 rows, each row of 15 different colors and textures of the spinning line form a strict Matrix; there are hundreds of buttons in the rotating locker on the lower right side - she can lift them with their arms or slightly extended arms. This is all in order to improve production efficiency and carefully arranged.

The most important equipment is the size of a 6-inch display, which is integrated in the top of the sewing machine. Chen Li “嘀” slammed the exclusive magnetic card, the cuff process of the current order is displayed: three or four buttons, buttonhole monochrome or multi-color, and some orders are ingenious, requiring the buttons to be compactly overlapped, resembling a fish scale .

Chen Ligang, who is a ponytail, has worked for two years and has a long history of qualifications. He is still not qualified for higher-level, less standardized processes, such as upper sleeves. The display on the front of a woman in the sleeve reads: convex belly / sleeve fat. This means that she relies on experience and feel, keeps the mouth larger and keeps the sleeves moderately behind to ensure that the owner of the dress does not feel tight.

The sewing cuffs and upper sleeves are two of the 163 sewing processes and 298 total processes. In the red-collar factory, the sewing process maximizes the appearance of flexible production – from scattered clothing to a straight suit, the orders are still transmitted on the assembly line, but each piece and its adjacent one can be completely different. Such custom clothing, Red Collar Day produces 3000 kits.

Custom factory

It is understood that the cost of the red collar group's customized business is 1.1 times that of the previous garment manufacturing, but the net profit margin is more than 20%, far higher than the traditional garment industry. For example, in the peak period of Metersbonwe, in 2011, its net profit margin was 12%, and now, Smith Barney's net profit margin is negative.

According to previous public reports, Red Collar's annual sales in 2014 reached 3 billion yuan. According to the red collar production of 3000 kits per day, the customer unit price is estimated at more than 1,000 yuan, and the annual sales should be roughly in the billions of dollars.

"This is the advantage of C2M (Customer to Manufactory), canceling the intermediate link, can achieve zero inventory. In the past, 50% of the price of a piece of clothing is to pay for the stock." Zhang Yunlan, president of the Red Collar Group said.

In November 2015, Fosun Ruizhe, a subsidiary of Fosun Group, which specializes in industrial investment and mergers and acquisitions, completed a strategic investment of 3 billion yuan for the personalized platform of Red Collar. “C2M”, or flexible production, is a major investment direction for Fosun.

Custom factory

From New York to China

Customized on the assembly line, like a long and vast production experiment, the red collar took 12 years and 250 million yuan to complete. Before 2003, it was the same as most Chinese garment factories, and it took a lot of work to make a living. The clothing of its own brand only had local influence. More than one taxi master in Qingdao said that they are familiar with the brand. In that period, the foundry model has not yet shown its deterrent, and the domestic first-line brands represented by Li Ning, Metersbonwe and Bosideng have established a leading position by rapidly expanding their franchisees and aggressively placing advertisements. For the red-collar workers, doing OEM or branding is a natural and logical choice. However, Chairman Zhang’s agent decided to upgrade the factory in an all-round way and transform it into customization. This stems from his knowledge in Europe - 30% of the custom-made market, and the toughness of his character - the brand is too dependent on the channel, the OEM is too dependent on the order, he hopes to build core competitiveness, to truly Control the fate of the company.

Nowadays, a large number of domestic clothing brands have closed stores, and low-end OEM orders have been lost to Southeast Asian factories. To some extent, Zhang’s judgment has been confirmed. In 2003, Red Collar's custom business started in New York. A large number of small workshops have become the target customers of Red Collar. Zhang Yunlan, who took over the position of president from the father's hands, recalled that the first graduated college student sent an English email every day in the office. There were about two or three responses in 100. At that time in New York, $1,000 could buy a good ready-to-wear, but I couldn't enjoy the customization. The red collar aimed at this price and converted some orders. With a large number of orders, slow rate of climb, and loss of customer trust, from 2003 to 2008, Red Collar accumulated more than 2 million sets of customized version data.

After that, the technical team tried four times to establish a matching algorithm between user data and version data to ensure the implementation of automated pattern making. As a key player in the apparel production chain, pattern makers are considered an invaluable resource in the custom business. The last version of the red collar is 10,000 yuan a day, playing two sets a day. Automatic pattern making can produce patterns in an instant, with a small amount of manual fine-tuning. This algorithm has thus become one of the most valuable data assets of Red Cross. At present, the standard version of the Red Collar database reaches 400,000, and the derivative version (such as a button change can be regarded as a derivative) as many as one trillion.

By 2015, the proportion of European and American customers in the red collar custom business has reached more than 60%. The corresponding result is that the B-end customers are far greater than the C-end, accounting for more than 80%. In 2016, China's clothing custom stores and platforms have suddenly increased. Wang Xiaotian, the men's dress channel sales of the public comment network, said that since March this year, only in Beijing, the number of customized clothing businesses that advertised on public comments has grown from less than 50 to more than 80.

Some of them rely on the red collar supply chain system. The O2O custom platform is another powerful force, including many red-collar customers, such as the A-round financing of tens of millions of RMB. Wide-ranging, small and flexible custom stores and Internet entrepreneurs with "customized" labels, only need to find customers, provide tailor-made services and dress recommendations, and then input the volume data into the system provided by Red Collar, and by customer Like the choice of style, fabric, style (suit collar, chest strap, pocket, button style), personalized embroidery, etc., the huge factory of red collar began to develop and produce. Sometimes to save time, the finished product comes out of the red-collar factory and is delivered directly to the customer.

Custom factory

Shenzhen's "famous system" founder Kelvin pushed the price of custom suits between 2000 and 4000. After comparing the stability of the delivery (the current red collar is 7 working days), the fabric category, and the richness of the personality elements, the red collar became his first choice.

Wang Hong, the founder of Beijing “Nuoyi Customization”, has a price of 1,500 to 2,000. He once ran the custom factories in Beijing and Tianjin, and found that some small factories even customized two suits for him. Will "this fit, that piece does not fit." In contrast, the performance of the red collar made him so satisfied that the investor he was in contact with specifically advised him: In order to spread the risk, you should find another factory to cooperate at the same time.

But the red collar is not the winner. The founder of an independent designer brand in Shanghai said that she hopes to adopt the pleating process, and the red collar will not be able to take orders. When some guests are particularly tall or very short, the red collar performance is not ideal when the length and proportion of the clothes need to be adjusted. Another veteran of the clothing industry, who is looking forward to visiting the red-collar factory, said that compared with those high-quality craft factories, the large-scale assembly line products are still “less soul”.

Sun Jiangwei, vice president of Fosun Ruizhe, told 36氪, aside from the “micro-customization” in the market with “customization” as the gimmick, which is actually just a set of revisions, and most of the manual customization done by the old tailors, currently done by industrial means. Customized is not a red collar. However, in terms of the fluency of the entire system, "red collars are three to five years ahead of other companies in principle."

Unfinished experiment

Zhang Yunlan has an empty office and a large desk. The Drunker on the table is covered with long and short bookmarks. But she didn't have a lot of opportunities to read in the office, and she was flying around in two-thirds of the month.

The red collar experiment is still going on. In 2015, Red Collar launched the App-Magic Factory beta for C-end users, allowing consumers to enter data and customize men's suits, shirts and coats. In Qingdao, the words "Red Collar and Magic Factory", the gray extended bus that appeared on the street from time to time, is an invention of the C-end of the red-collar service.

The bus is used for the door. The built-in 3D scanner from the car comes from a Beijing-based technology company that scans 22 items of 19 parts of the human body in milliseconds with an accuracy of millimeters. But the experience of wearing a tight-fitting suit for scanning is not friendly. Most of the time, the red-collar training stylist will serve the customer. The “tool” is a flexible ruler, a slanting shoulder measuring instrument, and the coordinate measuring method developed by the chairman Zhang. In fact, this method has long been popular among B-end users of Red Collar.

“In 6 or 7 years, we discovered that standardization and personalization are not just clothing, but a complete methodology. The upgrading of traditional industries is a huge cake. Every enterprise needs it.” Zhang, the chairman of the Red Collar Group, said in an interview.

In early 2016, the red from the start to customize the output outward as the core enterprise transformation and upgrading solutions. At present, there are more than 60 companies in various industries that have signed contracts with Red Cross, and three have completed the transformation, including a jeans factory, a cosmetics company, and a furniture company.

The domestic women's wear brand 珂莱蒂尔 is also among the 60, and its partner, Red Star, Fosun Ruizhe has become the main promoter of this cooperation. Sun Jiangwei said that Fosun Ruizhe has long been concerned about industrial upgrading and has truly realized C2M enterprises, and they will invest in the future.

Zhang Yunlan said that the next step for the Red Collar Group is to promote the Magic Factory App, expand 3,000 display and service stores nationwide for three years, and build a direct sales platform for end consumers, introducing other categories and brands that are customized.

A detail reveals the halo of this custom factory today: from 2015 onwards, the average number of visitors to the red-collar planning team is about 20 or 30 people per day. The peak day is four days before and after, with a total of more than 200 people. The delegation came. Large and small media are also in constant stream. Many people are curious as to whether this path of red-collar walking can be copied.

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